How To Solve Level 19 Of Electric Box

Casio CFX-9850G / CFX-9850GB + Overclocking Overclocking Tutorial

is This How-to it at the Casio CFX-9850G (gray) can all or even almost identical to the CFX-9850GB + (the black) and the CFX-9850C (the be want white and blue). It is in this mod is a really great modification:

This graphic calculators are used mainly in high school and at university and have now reached general popularity, and only the Texas Instruments Voyage 200 or TI 89 + has achieved similar fame . This, however, have both a computer algebra system and go for 100 € and go up the Voyage 200 with 180 € proposes to book.

More gratifying is that one can considerably speed up the little Casio and what I have now written a little guide. The topic is already in many forums and some bloggers had already planned howtos, but never completed. All based on the fact that a small component in the calculator exchanges, indicating in principle the clock, so the speed with which the GTR rates. Standard is a 4 Mhz resonator SMD (or 4.3 to be exact) - A quartz crystal which is applied to a mini-circuit board (hence the word SMD) ... We want this exchange in our tutorial by an 8 MHz resonator SMD! This means 100% performance increase - a value from the PC overclockers large area make eyes, because you would be happy in the PC sector with 20% ...

What you need for modding?

first to be overclocked computer, which I scored on ebay for under 20 € and leaving most of them under 20 €:

well as soldering equipment, this will involve a relatively fine soldering iron with a 10 € soldering iron from the Conrad quite sufficient. It is important that you regularly clean the tip and smooth drag, so you have a good contact to the solder. Contaminated with a soldering iron soldering is a pain, so I took my tip in the course of the mods 3 or 4 times sanded off.

solder, preferably with a soul that serves as a rosin flux and ensures that the solder flows down there, where it should ...

wire, that is, is simply a fine wire with about 1.4 mm ^ 2 is ideal, which is also available at Conrad are for 1.20 € (0.14 LiY RING 10 M YELLOW)

shrink tubing which is heated later with a heat gun so that narrows and makes for perfect isolation:

Desoldering, because you can "soak up" with this solder, or alternatively a Entlötsaugpumpe ... However, dealing with this "little" complicated and is not necessary, but more on that later:


And the real resonator. This time probably become obsolete again and again the sources, which is why I would like to sum me what I was able to learn. Requires
is probably a majority, according to sources SMD resonator, which determines in principle, only the size, but with normal, large Quartze it seems to have been problems. He also should have a beat between 4 MHz and 8MHz . 8 MHz made with not all the calculators, so often, a 7.3 MHz resonator recommended. This is nciht always available, why I opted for some 6 MHz and 8 MHz resonators. The additional capacity, an SMD Resonator brings matter seems to be ... but you should always pay attention to the size ! Half of my ordered resonators were too small, the right people have about 7mm long and 3mm wide. Item number 726459-62 for Conrad, currently costs only 0.36 € a piece ...

addition screwdriver and other accessories ...

Step 1: Open the calculator


mitlerweile should be the first backup made, since a complete loss of data likely is. In addition, you should definitely check regularly on the heating discharge static to prevent fine components are destroyed.

first open the battery compartment, you must at the 9850G model has a screw loose:

remove then all 4 batteries as well as the little coin battery, and remove all marked screws:

should from now on you are your calculator always on the side of the display have time, otherwise verutschen the keys - which, while not a problem because you can simply use the keys again, but this must not be.
Now we come to the tricky part. The GTRs by Snap-ins are closed, that means small plastic hook as we know it from any device. These start at the top of the bottom between the 2 halves with 2 old chip cards, the two halves separate ... Alternatively, very carefully with a screwdriver. The whole is, if one makes it the first time, relatively heavy, but soon you get the hang of it.

If you are all snap have dissolved into, it should look like this:

are the top the two halves of this somewhat complicated "hinges" with plastic connected and you can only use the upper half try gently to pry up. Nciht other way. The 5th Times are open to me now it stopped two plastic nipples but why does the GTR is still optimal.

Step 2: Find the resonator must


own a 9850G now toil even further, the owner of a can or a 9850gb + 9850C jump to Step 3, because there the board is rotated so that the resonator is already visible now.
now have to be solved another 6 screws, do not let it from my tape disturbing is not with you still there;) fold away

Now the display part up, and there is now your cavity in the 9850GB + devices put in the same, just only on the other side the board


Step 3: Remove the old resonator


now must first be labeled X1 resonator soldered. This has 3 contacts which are soldered to each 2 solder points on each side.
One can proceed according to three ways.

You can try by small time-term heating of solder wick and the solder joints on the resonator the used solder to absorb, so you can remove the resonator easy,

We tried all three joints per side to heat the same and increase the resonator with a pair of tweezers.
I decided for option 1, but had to be Ellen, that it is not working as I wanted because I at one point solder in the cavity was.

So I decided to route 3, the violent, irreversible destruction of the old quartz, in which he was careful with ner abkneift pliers. As already 5 of the pads with me were resolved, it was quite simple.
However, one must then throw away the old Quartz ...

Now everything should look like this (up on the already soldered cable)



Step 4:
soldering of the new resonator

You can either solder the resonator directly on the board, or as I recommend Short Cable solder and solder it to the resonator.

This strip of 2mm wire, tin it with some solder and then solder the solder joint under the same heat of the cable and the cable.
This now all 3 contacts (which are 2 of the matter, they're connected)

Now you should go shrink tubing over the cables and the heat (with a hot air gun for instance) ... without melting the GTR;)

Now only the fine wire - with the correct polarity to the resonator solder without these rises in flame ... it looks like this:


important here is that the average Pol also associated with the average solder joint, since it is grounded.

Now even shrink tubing or electrical tape to make the resonator and insulate everything well.


Step 5: Closing the
GTRs ...

then fix the resonator and the cable somewhere with tape and the GTR back together and all pull screws. Then use all the batteries.

If you did everything right, you should now the GTR I can start on AC.
If not, that was enough for me before, you have to press the small reset button behind:

... However, you must reset this nciht, it was just about to start.
now has your gtr only be still alive ... if not you have probably done something wrong and You shall check all solder joints and sometimes try new batteries (I once had no contact and I thought the worst)

DONE

your GTR now expects twice as fast as a normal.
The draw of 10 sine functions (sin (x), sin (2x), ...) takes
old: 54.4 seconds
new: 28.6 seconds ...

accounts for 90% performance increase!
thus has your gtr now 190% of the old power.

However I would like some cited disadvantages of the mods :

by the higher clock nciht it is possible with another device via the built-in interface to communicate, because voting is no longer here the bars. A connection to the PC by nciht possible. Unless you build the old Quartz an additional and switches with 2 microswitch. However, I need
this function does not necessarily why I have not tried it, but In this thread has made this one.

addition, the GTR verbaucht probably almost twice the power - he also twice as fast as expected, but has evened out eventually.

also wishes I link to some useful sites:
Marcel's CFX-9850G page which has since gone to sleep but ... and
Marcos Homepage where there are also some nice things to GTR is.
and my Flickr album to Mod ...

I like being open to suggestions and answer questions also like to mod and would be glad if you link to my howto.

Personalized Ear Gagues

Cat5 Audio Speaker Cables

How to build a hi-fi cable for my stereo system without a lot of money?

This question has probably been none, but the answer was probably to quite unexpected. A problem with cables is that high frequencies only transported on the surface of a conductor be, there is too high inside the cable, the self-induction, or eddy currents are too many and the signal is weakened. You can read about this in the Wikipedia under the skin effect . The whole thing was already implemented in real high-end cables and those there to buy: eg click the X Monocle from Kimber Kable ... but consider the price of the like by 1000 is about € ... Who

fun tinkering with the can, but just a Cat5, Cat5e or Cat6 take better cable - because they have a better screening - and to build its cable itself. .... how can all look like this?

Preview .... of cinemafia

material list:
Lan cable, at least 3 times, I recommend 6-7 times longer than the desired length Later,
per channel 2 RCA plugs / terminals, connectors spell or what popular. for stereo consequently 4th ..
tape - much better, however, shrink tubing

tool:
knives, scissors, pliers, soldering equipment, hot air gun for shrink tubing

now the how-to, and ask the first time completely read through before taking action ..:

first Lan cable and attach to the desired length + 10cm least! repeatedly cut off by the patch / LAN cable. recommendation per channel I 3 pieces ... cope cut for stereo consequently 6 small cable.

second a) On one side of the 3 cables, the small inner lines about 5cm, ... depending on the skills ... freileigen and the individual lines Strip - 8 pieces per Lan Cable ... therefore 24 times stripping ...
surprised at the picture, please do not put that on it already covers three of the RCA connector, you should be there now are still not on it, and later one of only!

then solder each half of the 24 cables to the two poles of the RCA connector, this example is available from the Conrad, Pollin, Elektronicteile reichelt or other vendor.

The whole design to be somewhat tricky, because normally only heard a cable plugs into the ... Consequently, the opening of 24 small cable is too small. I have this solved so that I soldered every 8 of the 12 cables per channel per pole to the other 4 of the pole and then almost 2 times (because 2 pole) 4 cable into the connector leads to fit just so and then provided with the solder eyelets - important heat, both cable and eyelet and tin, otherwise you get a bad solder joint - this requires some experience and intuition, and sometimes more than 4 hanging;)

second b) Now you should have the 24 small Kabelchen soldered to the plug, and now you should all with shrink tubing, or alternatively, if not available wrap with insulating tape.

then either make a knot in the cord - I've solved it, or sonstein "stopper" attached so that no force acts on the cable later ... is not absolutely necessary.


3) lichens - now you should have the 3 LAN cable in front of you, on the one side is soldered to a connector. Now places the 3 cables in parallel before you, so they do not cross.
The lichen is now easier than you think. First, it sets the left over the middle in the middle, while the medium moves almost to the left. Now, you put the rights of the in the middle. Now again the left in the middle, then the rights and so on, until you almost reached the other side since. Now you can back your knot



4) Now solder the 2 Connector just like to point 2 at the other end. Re-shrink tubing over it.

done is your Cat5 Audio Cable!

If you well for, what it looks like like this:
Wow ...
If you want it, only without optics and without lichens, like this:
....? ah

by the way, here is another guide ...

I have "something" built differently, because I've built a cable, which distributes the signal from stereo to 6 channels, in which one simply soldered to one end corresponding to 3 male - of course the right cable! .... so that I can provide my 5.1 receiver with stereo, otherwise the rear speakers are too quiet. (Since my Mac OS X only provides stereo ...) to DVD Guggen I'll have my turn on XP ...




I will still try to make a few more pictures and look totally different to even a little bit, but I think it can remain the almost.
Where ... these tutorials will give more often, so I can reach more people with me and to the Web 2.0 to enrich. I
about the manual, please do not copy in any forums, but simply to link this blog entry.

here for example in the DIY community